The heavyweight of orchids in full bloom

Back in Singapore, we got a roaming welcome from the largest orchid in the world, the Tiger orchid. In full bloom only once in every 20 years, it is for the moment putting up a huge show at the Singapore Botanic Gardens. If you are around, try not to miss it: 35 long stems are carrying over 50 flowers each, which means that more than 1750 large and fragrant orchid flowers are swaying in the wind  close to the Tanglin gate of the gardens!

 

 

The Tiger orchid (Grammatophyllum speciosum) is named as the markings on the flowers are thought to resemble the stripes of a tiger (leopards are not native to these areas, if you think that it would make more sense). A real heavyweight of orchids (or any other flowers), a mature plant can actually weight more than one ton (!), so it usually grows at the "fork" of the lower tree branches - higher up, it would probably take down the whole tree, or at least the branch is was growing on.

 

This huge, fragrant orchid is native to Singapore, but has unfortunately been extinct in the wild since about year 1900. The National Parks organization has made conservation efforts to reintroduce the plant on the island, and has luckily had some success even in the city center close to Orchard and Alexandra Roads, and more expectedly, in some remote parks (of course, nothing is really remote in little Singapore...). As I said, try make an effort to see it if you are around; it is quite special to see the largest orchid of the world in full bloom!

Pulau Ubin - the last kampung of Singapore

Village dwellings at Pulau Ubin, a short boat ride out from Singapore.

 

Imagine a Singapore with no cars or high-rise buildings, just small huts on tilts and electricity by generators only, surrounded by a noisy bird-filled jungle... well, that's Pulau Ubin, or the Granite Island, just a short 10 minutes bumboat ride from the east coast. A trip here takes you back to Singapore of the 1960's or 70's, to a kampong life that was eased by more modern lifestyles from the main island - just like from so many other places in Asia.

 

This small island was named after its rolling granite hills, that supported a couple of small quarries and provided work for a few thousands islanders a century ago. Others cleared off most of the native jungle, and planted crops like rubber, coffee, pineapple, coconut and jasmine. Today, the quarries have closed and a lush jungle again covers the island. Only some hundred villagers still live at Pulau Ubin, supported by farming or by tourists - mainly Singaporeans coming for a biking tour amidst the greenery during the weekends, and having a seafood dinner in the green while on the island.

Despite all complains about a continuous destruction of "genuine Singapore", Pulau Ubin seems to have a bright future - the government has seen the value of this quaint island, and has already gently developed it as a park. A new project is on way looking into ways of conserving the lifestyle and nature of the island, so it seems that the charms of Pulau Ubin can be enjoyed by coming generations of Singaporeans. Take time to get out there, spend a couple of hours strolling the narrow roads, listen to the birds and cicadas, and have a messy dinner of chili crab and steamed fish - you would never guess you are only half an hour away from one of the busiest ports and financial centers of Asia!

 Bumboats waiting for travelers - 10 minutes and $2 is all you need to get to Pulau Ubin.

 Approaching the tiny harbor... 

The village seen from the sea - one of the "famous but simple" seafood restaurants on the left; many Singaporeans take the trip to Ubin only to eat a lunch or dinner there.

Village center - no cars, as only bikes are allowed on the island.

The village temple dedicated to Tua Peck Kong, a Daoist god of prosperity; the islanders think that he helped to spare them from diverse atrocities during the Japanese occupation.

The local grocery store selling coconuts - guaranteed fresh and local...

 

Most tourists on the island are Singaporeans who bike around the beautiful and car-free island.

 

 One of many hiking paths, between two large ponds growing waterlilies and lotuses.

Dark pink waterlilies in the bright sun.

One of the local houses, probably with a romantic view over the palm-surrounded pond.  

Another kampung house, with chickens running inside the corrugated iron fence.

 

A well-renowned seafood place, still going strong despite the faded sign (we tested - the steamed white fish with ginger and shallots was delicious!).  

 

Yet another village house, by the sea.

 

And a bumboat ride back home with my kind of a captain - look at the mini garden on roof; he even had potted plants inside the boat!

Tulip gazing, Singapore style

Maybe this post should start with a special warning about "eye-jarring color combinations, not suitable for sensitive viewers"?

 

This morning, we biked to the huge Flower Dome at the Gardens by the Bay by the Singapore River, to see their newest exhibition called "Tulipmania". And I guess anyone would agree about the suitability of the name, given that about 50 000 bulbs were flown all the way from the Netherlands for the displays. Sponsored by a well-known airline from the same country, the display is supposed to look like a cityscape from Holland  - luckily, the reality is usually much more charming.

 

Obviously, bulbs like these don't thrive in tropics like Singapore, so the display is really quite exotic for many Singaporeans. The dome was crowded directly after opening, people busying themselves photographing their loved ones in front of the gaudy bulbs and taking close-ups of the flowers - for some reason, the single, purple tulips seemed to attract most attention. The lines outside grew by the minute, so by the time we left the soothing coolness of the Flower Dome, tourists and local alike were sweating away in the sultry heat, waiting to get their tickets.

 

It was all a bit mad, really; a full on "Technicolor" version of spring in the Netherlands with crowds pressing around them - nothing to do with watching delicate bulbs stick up from the soil in early spring accompanied by birdsong and a gentle breeze, as one would expect to do  in the northern parts of the world... Of course, that is not possible here and this is an artificial exhibition, but I would have still loved a more sensitive approach; much softer tones and more gentle natural combinations, and less color-blocking and strong contrasts. But then, maybe the sponsors wouldn't have agreed on that, don't they say that strong colors sell best?

 

Imagine less color-blocking, mixing several color tones together and adding some feathery grasses...?

 

 The Dutch love orange...

 

 

 ...and despite all my cringing about the strong colors, I do too; especially those brush strokes in sunset tones.

 

 What do you call a color like this? "Washed-out"?

 

 

 I loved to see so many people taking close-ups of the bulbs; this uncle (in Singapore, everyone over 25 is called an "uncle" or an "auntie", which I find very sweet) spent minutes trying to get the perfect shot of a purple tulip. And I didn't even notice the huge lamp before seeing the picture on my screen...

 

 A fresh-looking, frilly tulip that I would like to see in my garden - not very original, of course, but these would have looked great with some black tulips (which of course really are deep purple).

 And the crowds were busy, immortalizing the bright and cheery display. Open until 4th of May 2014.

The Istana - from nutmeg plantation to Presidential Palace

Queen Victoria,  relegated from the State Room to the gardens in 1959. Not a bad move, actually - I know at least where I would rather be...

 

Again, I've been too busy write anything down here... But now that I do, at least it is garden-related. The Chinese Lunar New Year started on February 1st, and the Istana was open from early morning until evening. It opens only four or five times a year, so luckily we were there shortly after 8 AM, as when leaving the grounds, the queue trailed well over half a kilometer around the huge block. Combined with a heat of 36 degrees C, visiting after 10 AM that day must really have been for the truly committed ones.

 

The Istana itself - difficult to photograph as it is surrounded by lush greenery; one would need some kind of a crane to get high enough...

Fountains on a lower terrace in front of the Istana; a huge Tembusu tree from the original times grew in the same spot until quite recently.

 

Istana means 'palace' in Malay, which describes well the handsome building housed in the over 100 acre gardens in the middle of the busiest business district of Singapore - just stepping in to the specious greenery from the never-sleeping Orchard Road feels positively unreal. It was initially built by the British Colonial Government as a residence for its governors in 1869, and handed over to the Singaporean Government in 1959, when the country gained self-government (that's a lot of government and governors in one single sentence...). While the president of Singapore has never lived there, the building serves frequently for ceremonial and entertainment purposes, and also houses the offices of the President and his staff; what a magnificent place to go to work.

 

 Tropical splendor from around the Queen Victoria pond - ginger lilies and hibiscus, a bit of a challenge to catch in the glaring morning sun. 

 

And whites from the large shrub borders around the palace - must check what these are, my knowledge of the local flora is still far too limited...

 

The rolling grounds used to be a nutmeg plantation when construction works were started in 1867. The plans were drawn by Colonial Engineer, Major John F.A. McNair, who decided on a neo-Palladian style look similar to many other 18th century buildings designed by British military engineers throughout India. The layout of the building is adapted to the tropical climate and takes influences from Malay houses with columns, deep verandas, louvred windows and  paneled doors, which all promote cross-ventilation and cool down the interiors. The grounds contain a 9-hole golf course, "themed gardens" and several smaller bungalows (any of which I happily volunteer to rent in case there are any openings...). A bit too stiff to my taste (understandably, but still...), a nevertheless magnificent garden residence for a President of a tiny country like Singapore - and if I would be him, I would move in in a flash!

 

The large rolling hills, with the central business district behind - the whole place feels like a dream from the past (at least to us visitors, without any concerns about the state matters).

 

The Istana at Orchard Road, open at Lunar New Year, Deepavali, Hari Raya Pusa, Labour Day and National Day - arrive early to beat the huge crowds, and the heat.

 

Thaipusam - a pierced procession for Murugan

Yesterday, I followed the annual Thaipusam procession in Singapore for the first time. This colorful religious tradition - that feels like an anachronism in today's modern Singapore - originates from the Chettiars, South Indian Tamil immigrants that arrived in Singapore in early 19th century; the same group initiated the similar but more famous Thaipusam tradition held at the Batu caves in Malaysia.

 

When celebrating Thaipusam, devotees demonstrate their faith to Lord Murugan, son of Hindu God Shiva and his consort Parvati, by carrying kavadis (literally "burdens") through a 4.5 km long processional route on busy Singaporean streets. Kavadis range from simple wooden constructions and limes or milk pots hanging from hooks to elaborate spear ("vel") kavadis consisting of up to 108 long spikes pierced directly onto the carriers' bodies. In addition, devotees have skewers pierced through their tongue and cheeks, and holy ash applied to their bodies. Not for the fainthearted, truly.

'Why?' was my first reaction to the procession. And then: 'what could possibly be gained by torturing oneself in this way?' So I had to look for answer from those with more insight, and found following notes: by carrying a kavadi, "the devotee becomes a carrier or a vehicle himself and the act of lifting the kavadi is almost akin to assimilating spirit of the divinity within one's self. Many devotees associate this act as a humbling experience and believe that the vel dispels of ignorance and ego. Some of them feel they are recharging themselves, or purifying themselves as well as praying for the well being of their family and friends". And even if some people I know refuse attending Thaipusam calling it primitive and barbaric, the devotion of the kavadi bearers seemed so strong that I felt honored by them letting me photograph their labors of faith.

The piercings are said to inflict no pain as well as leave no scars (no blood is spilled during the process, which is well documented by many onlookers and photographers). Before Thaipusam, devotees go through a 48 day spiritual cleansing, which also involves a strict regime of fasting, abstinence and prayer.

 

Another devotee had hooked limes to his back and on the skewers leading through his cheeks...

Whole extended families participate and support their own kavadi carriers through the processional route through Singaporean streets.

 Even women participate, carrying milk pots symbolizing blood offered to Murugan.

 

A tired-looking young kavadi carrier - he didn't have any fat to cushion between the long spikes and his muscles, unlike some older devotees...

 

The piercing of the tongue and the cheeks are a symbolic (and actual) renunciation of the gift of speech and language in order to enable the devotee might concentrate more fully upon Lord Murugan.

 

 No age limits here - even the tiniest family members are obviously not too young to participate - in prams, or carried on shoulders.

 

Early morning at Thian Hock Keng Temple

A breakfast for those on the other side... despite the early hour, someone had already left a bag of food, some coffee and incense in front of a shrine with ancestral tablets that are bought to commemorate dead family members. 

Calm before the storm... All temples related to Chinese religions here in Singapore are busy preparing for the Lunar New Year in the end of January. Thian Hock Keng temple is no exception. There will be over two weeks of praying, diverse rituals and ceremonies to welcome the Year of the Horse, and to secure all possible blessings, from health and wealth to fertility and other prosperity. I took these pictures on an early morning visit and they are deceptively serene, so much is happening behind the scenes for the moment...

 

Cultural diversity is what I love most about Singapore - just scratch the surface, and something interesting pops up behind every corner, easily accessible for all to learn from and to enjoy.

 

The story of Thian Hock Keng Temple on Telok Ayer Street started in the 1820's, the early days of Singapore, as a humble joss house (a place to prayer and offerings) dedicated to Ma Zu Po, the Goddess of Sea and protector of sojourners. Many Chinese immigrants arrived with boats from Fujian (Hokkien), and went directly to the temple to offer thanks to Ma Zu for their safe journeys. Built in Southern Chinese architectural style, no nails were used when constructing it - and when renovated in the early 2000's, same methods were strictly followed. Thian Hock Keng is still one of the most popular temples in Singapore.   

The handsome entrance to the temple, with a pair of Foo lions and elaborately carved roof with countless Buddhist deities. The tessellated tiles and the cast iron fence are typical Colonial features - the cast iron was imported from Britain. It functioned as ballast in the trading ships that unloaded it here and filled their bellies with oriental trading goods from silk to spices in the Singaporean harbor. We had a veranda with very similar tiles in our Victorian house in Melbourne (it was built in 1890) - the old colonies share so much in so many ways...

A closer look at the entrance doors, with golden dragons and probably a depiction of one of the Eight Immortals, a group of beings that possess supernatural powers who can heal the sick, predict the future and transform themselves into other beings or even animals.

 More tiles and beautiful woodwork - no nails used! - in the inner courtyard of the temple.

 

 The main altar for Ma Zu is to the right - photography strictly not allowed there.

 View towards the main altar, with a large bronze incense burner in the middle; it is covered with lucky symbols like bats (bats are called "fu" in Chinese which sounds like "luck").

 Early morning maintenance work... beautiful old Singaporean shophouses behind the temple walls.

 

 A lovely, simple side entrance to the main altar. And more tiles, which were very much loved as decoration on temples and houses - and even tombs - by the Singaporean Chinese.

 An altar for Guanyin, the Goddess of Mercy, with the Moon Goddess and Sun God on each side. Guanyin means "Observer of Sound", so she hears the cries of all living beings, helps those in need and delivers salvation. Together with Ma Zu, she is one of the most revered goddesses here, and belongs to both Buddhist and Daoist pantheons.

 

Guanyin also helps infertile women to conceive - here, small dolls and even nappies had been left to her helper, the Moon Goddess.

 The Chinese are so beautifully inclusive in their religious lives; there's no need to select one, just choose whatever suits you from the Buddhist, Daoist and even Confucian religions and philosophies - a thinking that would be great if it would be adopted in some other parts of the world... Here, Confucius (Kong Zi), Chinese philosopher who lived about 2500 years ago, whose teachings still influence the daily lives of the Chinese today.

 Confucius taught the importance of wisdom, common education, cultivation of noble human character and development of one’s thinking - here, red banners are hung under the roof by his altar, expressing wishes for success in upcoming exams.

 

Bats everywhere - from roof tiles to bronze vessels to stone carvings, these little good luck symbols can be found throughout the temple. Here, people have rubbed the bat for an extra touch of luck so many times that it has turned black and almost shiny.

 

Yet another elaborately carved and painted side entrance. Sometimes people complain about Singapore being too orderly and clean, but I have to admit that I enjoy seeing these cultural treasures without graffiti tags or other doodles...and knowing they will be quite safe from them even in future.

 

A new pictorial tour coming up next week - the festival of Thaipusam will be celebrated on Friday by the Hindu community in Singapore, just in right time for my current South Asia studies!